Professional Rock Climbing Instructor Certification
Take your guiding career to the next level. Expedition Training’s AMGA Single Pitch Instructor (SPI) Courses and Exams are designed for climbers seeking to teach and guide in single-pitch environments. Led by IFMGA-certified instructors, our courses combine real-world climbing instruction with nationally recognized certification standards.
| Duration | 3 days for the course, 2 days for the exam |
| Locations | Wasatch Range, Moab, City of Rocks |
| Instructors | IFMGA-certified |
| Price | Course: $625 • Exam: $475 |
Upcoming Dates
To see upcoming dates, choose from the Salt Lake City or Moab registration links below.
SPI CourseA three-day training that focuses on risk management, technical systems, teaching skills, and client safety for single pitch climbs.
Register for Courses here:
Registration for the Moab Course
|
SPI ExamA two-day evaluation that tests guiding efficiency, professionalism, and instructional methods.
Register for Exams here:
Registration for the Moab Exam
|
Note: You must complete the SPI Course before registering for the SPI Exam, see the prerequisites below.
What Sets Expedition Training Apart
- Instructor access. Personalized coaching from AMGA-certified providers.
- Low student-to-instructor ratio. 1:6 for individualized attention.
- Focus on application. Learn real-world guiding techniques beyond the manual.
- National reach. Students travel from across the U.S. and abroad.
Course Prerequisites
- Have a genuine interest in rock climbing and instructing on single pitch crags.
- Are at least 18-years old at the time of the course.
- Have at least 12 months prior outdoor climbing experience.
- Are active climbers with traditional anchor building and traditional lead climbing experience (leader placing pro).
- Have traditionally led a minimum of 15 rock climbing routes (any grade).
- Single pitch traditional lead climbing with traditional anchor building is preferred. A multi pitch route would meet one of the fifteen requisite route requirements and does not count towards multiple routes.
- Are capable of comfortably climbing 5.8 while on a top rope.
Exam Prerequisites
- Have successfully completed an AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Course within the past 2 years. For those renewing, their SPI certification must be valid or within 1 year expiration.
- Have traditionally led a minimum of 40 rock climbing routes.
- A large number of these should be at the 5.6 grade (or higher) in various locations and on a variety of different rock types. A multi pitch route would meet one of the forty requisite route requirements and does not count towards multiple routes.
- Are capable of comfortably lead climbing (leader placing own protection) on any 5.6 traditional route. Candidates will demonstrate their leading ability on a variety of routes during the assessment.
- Are capable of comfortably climbing 5.8 with a top rope belay. Candidates will demonstrate their top rope climbing ability during the assessment.
Instructor Spotlight
 |
JoshIFMAGA Certified Guide, 23 years of mountain guiding experience, and psyched to share all the knowledge he can about the professional side of the industry! |
FAQs
Do I need to take the course before the exam?
You must complete the SPI Course before registering for the Exam.
What should I bring?
SPI Required Equipment List:
- UIAA/CE approved Climbing Helmet
- UIAA/CE approved Climbing Harness with belay loop
- Climbing shoes or approach shoes in which you can climb up to 5.8
- Standard “lead climbing rack” such as, stoppers/nuts, SLCD’s, tri-cams (optional), etc.
- Assorted 24” and 48” runners
- 5-10 non-locking carabiners (this is in addition to what’s on your lead rack)
- 3 or more locking “HMS/Pearbiners” (this is a bare minimum!)
- 6 or more locking carabiners, (most students do best with all HMS carabiners and 1-2 other types)
- Belay/rappel device, such as the “Reverso”, “ATC”, etc.
- Assisted braking device, such as the Petzl “GriGri” or Trango “Cinch” belay devices
- 1-2 Prusik loops (1m of 5-6mm nylon accessory cord, 7mm is not adequate)
- 1-2 cordelettes (5m of 7mm nylon accessory cord, or 5.5mm ‘tech-cord’ rated to 20kn+, 6mm nylon is not adequate!)
- One 50-70m “single” rope (9.2-10.5mm) suitable for leading and top roping
- One static or “semi static” (gym line) rope 9-11mm, 30m+, for setting up anchors and fixed lines (required, possibly available for purchase through SIET, $70. Please inquire at least 2 weeks before the course).
What’s the refund policy?
If you need to cancel 60 days prior to the course, you will be given a full refund. Cancelations that occur after 60 days will not receive a refund.
AMGA Single Pitch Instructor (SPI) Course and Exam Scholarships:
The SUMMIT Fund: ‘Supporting Underrepresented Mountain Mentors & Instructors’ Training’ Apply for $100 to $1,000 in funding to cover course part/all of your course tuition.